PCT Thru-hike #13: 1000 Miles at Yosemite
Thru-hiking the Pacific Crest Trail was a life-changing experience for Arthur and Jill. This is our story.
Follow the PCT thru-hike adventure from the beginning and hike with us to mile 2,650.
Enter Yosemite
Written by Arthur
Uphill we climbed until we had found Thousand Island Lake. There were only like 30 islands. Downhill we walked into a very mosquito-y place which had a pretty lake and some beautiful rivers, but we kept moving fast because of the mosquitos. Then we hiked up to Donahue Pass at 11,000ft where there were great views of Mammoth Mountain and of Yosemite National Park, which we were just about to drop down into.
Bushtit had talked all day about how she was hot and sweaty and couldn’t wait to jump into an alpine lake at the top of the pass. We found a perfectly clear lake for her to swim in, but she had changed her mind. Hiking uphill quickly warms a body up, but the mountain passes were often quite chilly when we stopped for a moment to snack or take in a view.
Anyway, the climb down Donahue was very steep, but very beautiful. We passed by many JMT hikers who were climbing up their first mountain pass of their trail and they were all exhausted. The JMT begins in Yosemite Valley, and we were only a day’s mileage away.
The meadows at the base of our descent were vast. The river waters were crystal clear, and the trail was muddy as a swamp. Seriously. One boot step in the wrong spot and you could lose it as it sank into the mud.
We had to stop short for the day, earlier than we wanted. A large portion of the trail in Yosemite was closed to camping for restoration purposes. We found a nice early evening campsite before the closed zone. It was next to a rushing river, nestled against a hill next to the trail. Our site was well shaded by trees. Trees which were marked. Trees which had been clawed and climbed by something big. Every single tree in a 40ft radius was scarred by a big bear with very big claws. Long gashes decorated every tree, sap oozing and having dried in rivulets down their barks.
We stored our food in our bear cans and placed them far out of sight of our tent. Another hiker came by to pick out a spot and Bushtit freaked out, thinking he was a bear. We went to bed with our trekking poles close by. Just in case.
Tuolumne Meadows
Written by Jill
We were not molested by bears last night! Our bear canisters weren’t even touched — it was rather anticlimactic. The morning was pretty chilly, though. We wanted to stay warm and cozy inside of our sleeping bags, but we convinced ourselves that since it was cold the mosquitos wouldn’t bother us. That was enough motivation to get moving.
We hit the trail at eight o’clock with six and a half miles to the Tuolumne Meadows General Store. The trail followed the Lyell River, which was beautiful and flat. The flat part helped us make good time and we cruised at three miles per hour to the store. There were cars and people everywhere, which we didn’t expect for a Monday, and it was a little overwhelming. A few shaded picnic tables in front of the store was the apparent hiker trash haven, so Tomtit and I made our way there. Our friends Salt, Pepper, Bones, The Coon, and a few other hikers were milling around with their resupply boxes. We plunked our packs down and went to grab some food from the grill. I got a breakfast sandwich and Tomtit got a grilled Italian sub, and then later I went back for a vanilla and chocolate swirl soft serve. We picked up our own resupply boxes and an envelope full of Cliff Bars and tuna packets.
I also received my new hat that I had been eagerly awaiting. We received too much food and decided to mail some of it forward to ourselves. The store would only send outgoing mail until noon, so we hurriedly picked out eight days of food each and then stuffed all the extra food back into one of the priority boxes. I ran the box over to the window at 12:01 and they mailed it anyway. Those guys were swamped with thru-hiker and JMT hiker boxes and they were still super helpful! Now we would have less food to buy at our next stop in South Lake Tahoe.
We hung around the store for a bit talking with the other hikers until around two. There was a moratorium on camping the next four miles after the store, so we planned on going about five and a half to the Glen Aulin Campground. I ran into the store and bought an ice cream bar to go, and we said goodbye to everyone as we headed out.
The trail was flat and now followed the Tuolumne River. Tomtit and I had left just after Treebeard and Salamander and we soon caught up to them. The four of us were stopped by a friendly mounted ranger who asked for our permits and to see our bear cans. It was the first time we’d needed to show our permits in 940 miles! The ranger spotted a huge jack rabbit and pointed it out for us. It was enormous! The Tuolumne River was very pretty with some waterfalls and scenic meadows. We crossed a bridge to get to Glen Aulin Campground and we trekked uphill to find a secluded spot. Once we had the tent set up we retraced our steps to the river and went for a little swim : )
We collected some water and hiked back to our site. The campground had three official community fire pits and we had chosen a site next to one of the pits — so we had a responsibility to make a fire. Tomtit and I wandered around the woods picking up dead branches until we had a nice pile. We’d told Treebeard and Salamander (who were camping at a lower site) to come up for a fire later, but first we were going to eat dinner. I packed out a surprise for Tomtit — a box of Ritz crackers, a block of aged cheddar cheese, and a small box of Bandit Cabernet Sauvignon. He was pretty pleased : ) We also rehydrated a dried black bean and turkey mix we got from the hiker box in Mammoth because we eat a lot.
Tomtit got the fire going. Treebeard and Salamander joined us as well as two other hikers, and we all chatted around the fire. The other hikers were older gentlemen (one was 81!) who both worked as editors for the San Francisco Chronicle. One of the men hiked out to this campground once every year, and had been doing so for decades. We shared wonderful conversation and then put the fire out a little after sunset.
We’re a little ahead of schedule to get to South Lake Tahoe so today was a relaxed and pretty fun day — it was almost like a regular camping trip!
Can’t Catch a Break
Written by Arthur
Immediately after leaving the campground we came across another hiker named Sparrow who was speaking to our friend Primo about some lost friends. He didn’t know if his buddies were ahead or behind on the trail and we hadn’t seen them, but we promised to keep an eye out. Leaving Sparrow behind, we set off with Primo to start the day. We talked as we walked and learned about Primo’s vegetable farming history which had taken him all over the western states for work. He plans on starting his own independent farm someday after the trail.
Our path wound uphill through some boggy forests. The climb took the three of us to a high meadow where everything was green and lush. We stopped for a quick break to enjoy the scenery, but as had been the norm lately we didn’t stop for long because of the mosquito menace.
A while later we came to several creek crossings. I was able to make my way across easily with my waterproof boots, and Primo marched right through the rapids in his trail runners, not caring how soggy they became. Bushtit found herself stuck on a rock in the middle of a creek, so I rock hopped back and reached for her hand to help her make the big leap she was fearing. She jumped and I helped pull her to safety.
We then realized the mosquitos had mysteriously vanished, and we were quite famished. An area of granite rock took over the landscape and we found a good spot to stop for lunch. Little fishies moved in the current. The water was as clear as could be. We shared rehydrated refried beans, Fritos, summer sausage, and Nutella. Gotta pack those calories in, and it was so nice to finally have a chance to relax without the mosquitos bothering us. After the heavy lunch we immediately had another stream to cross. Bushtit had to take off her shoes and ford the river. Primo continued forward while I hopped across the river and waited for Bushtit to make her way.
After crossing the river we moseyed our way up to Benson Pass, yet another 11,000ft beast. I thought we had already made it through all of the major passes, but I was wrong. It was a slow-going and strenuously steep uphill. We climbed stairs of stone up the rock face before climbing into a moist gorge within the mountain. It was hard hiking, but the mosquito masses had returned and we couldn’t stop. When we tried to get water or take a break we used so much energy doing the mosquito shuffle that we were out of breath when we had started hiking again.
The peak was nearly barren of snow and was still full of mosquitos, but we had found our friends Primo, Treebeard, and Salamander resting at the top. The group of us raced downhill to find somewhere to camp and escape the bugs. On the way we saw some deer and astounding scenery. A few miles later we came upon Smedberg Lake and saw some campsites on the far shore. Evening set in, and as we hiked around the lake we pushed through clouds of mosquitos.
When we reached the tentsites each of us hurriedly put on extra mosquito padding (clothing) and pitched our tents. Bushtit and I strategized how we were going to get everything we needed in the tent and eat dinner without the mosquitos ruining everything. Only a couple of bugs made it inside the tent. We quickly eliminated them. The sun set as we watched the horde cling to the mesh walls of our tent. We could watch them clean their needle faces and prod through the mesh, hoping to find sweet flesh. It was gross.
We’re going to make sure to wake up before the mosquitos do tomorrow, for sure.
Six-legged Motivators
Written by Jill
I woke up this morning at 5:20, turned towards Tomtit’s door and groaned. “There are two mosquitoes on the mesh already.”
We decided to get moving anyway while it was still cold. We brought in our bags and packed up everything inside the tent with the doors closed. Breakfast was a few quick bars. We filtered a liter of water each and started hiking by 6:30.
We ran into Cashmere and Physio who we thought were a day behind us. We told them our goal of a 20 mile day and then got to climbing.
Our day was a series of uphills and downhills. We cruised up and over Seavey Pass and then dropped down, losing all of our gained elevation. The process repeated itself two more times, and so we got a good workout today. There were also constant mosquitos — shade, sun, wind, calm, it didn’t make a difference to the little bloodsuckers, they’d find us in seconds if we stood still.
At the bottom of the first downhill there was a large creek. A hiker was on the other bank and he said he couldn’t find a good crossing. I started taking off my shoes and doing the mosquito dance while Tomtit went upstream to rock hop over the water. I had just unlaced my second shoe when I heard a splash. I gasped and turned upstream to see Tomtit down in the water. “Are you ok?!”
He got up quickly and walked the rest of the way to shore. I waded across and found Tomtit sitting on a rock with his shoes off, blood starting to well from a cut on his knee and water soaking the bottom of his pack. He’d smashed his right knee and left shin into the slippery rocks. I gave him ibuprofen right away to keep any swelling down. Miraculously his gear was dry and although his legs hurt he was still able to walk. He tested out his knee on the next uphill and down and was moving at a normal pace with not too much discomfort, thank goodness!
The rest of our day was ruled by the mosquitos. We’d take breaks where there were only a few buzzing around and we’d hike as fast as possible through the infested places. At the end of the day I had my bug pants, headnet, and gloves on. I watched in horror as a cloud of about 40 mosquitoes followed Tomtit. I am not exaggerating. We hustled like crazy people still trying to make our 20 mile goal, but when we came to some camp sites near a creek we had to stop. It became too much to handle. Tomtit stood in the middle of the creek, where he claimed the bastards didn’t follow him, and I got the tent set up. We both put on all the protective clothing we had (they can’t bite through down!) and quickly made dinner. We ate in the tent while the mosquitoes hovered longingly outside. I bet they wished they were having dinner too!
We ended up doing 19 miles this day, so we’ll have to make up the extra mile somewhere — it just wasn’t worth walking while being tormented!
One Thousand Miles
Written by Jill
At the crack of dawn there were already a few mosquitos buzzing around. We had to get going before the full hordes awoke. The cool morning air brushed our cheeks as we walked alongside a big creek in the shade of some big, rocky mountain to the east. We came across Primo again as he was starting off for the day. The three of us moved swiftly through the land of the mosquitos and rarely took pause as we traversed muddy swampland and wet forest.
The very gradual ascent to Dorothy Lake Pass was a piece of cake, and the lake was beautiful. At the top of the pass were a couple of wooden signs. One sign stated that we were leaving Yosemite National Park and the other said we were entering the Hoover Wilderness. Something amazing happened. As we crossed the forest boundaries the world had shifted. The growing heat of the sun had been cut by a cool breeze. Our trail had changed from mud to smooth stone. The mosquitos had gone away.
We laughed and sang our way down the mountain. We had been in constant bugged out stress for days, and finally there was relief! Yosemite was beautiful, but. But. But there was too much muddy muck to walk through, too many day hikers and weekend backpackers crowding the trail and leaving their trash all around, and too many damn mosquitos. Primo put it best when he said, “I never thought I would say this, but fuck Yosemite!” We agreed with the sentiment. It was an overwhelming place. Hoover Wilderness seemed like a nicer place.
It wasn’t much later that we stumbled upon a collection of rocks which pointed out that we had made it to mile 1000 of the trail! A few hoot and hollers and rounds of “I would walk 500 miles and I would walk 500 more” later and we continued the trek. 1000 was awesome to reach but we weren’t done yet! A few more miles led us up and down some hills with mosquito-less lakes. Lunch was had and we thoroughly enjoyed the first mosquito-free break we had in quite awhile. Let me remind you that we keep talking about the mosquitos because they were absolutely terrible. The worst I had ever seen in my life. Clouds, swarms, hordes– whatever you want to call them, they attacked us by the hundreds and the thousands for days on end. It was insanity. But now we were free. I still had my long pants on just in case the buggers came back, and we were about to make our biggest climb of the day during the hottest part of the day. We gathered some water at a river and I dunked my shirt in as well. The cold, wet fabric felt great.
The climb to Sonora Pass begun along a washed out stretch of trail. For a mile or two it was as if the mountain had loosened its rocks and the earth had slid down in one very big mudslide. This left the trail very lumpy and hard to follow. Eventually we made it beyond the rubble and climbed higher to a river which was our last source of water for ten miles. We stocked up and ate snacks. Eight other hikers gathered at the stream while we were there, doing the same as us.
Filled up, we moved forward. The climb was high, but the trail was graded very well. It was odd, almost like a gravel road. We had never seen the trail shaped like this before. Even climbing back near 11,000 ft the angle of the slope was just comfortable enough that we rarely had to stop to catch our breath.
The mountains, as well, were different than what we were used to. Instead of rocks and trees, they were just dirt. The landscape was dotted with snow patches and pretty in a unique way.
As we neared the top we could see just how clear the skies were. To the south we could see the tops of the Sierras for miles and miles. It was the best view of the mountains we’d had since Mt. Whitney. The view to the north was great as well, and showed us just how different the mountains were which were waiting ahead for us.
The top of our climb wasn’t the end. We had a few miles of ridge walking at the high elevation to go before we made it to the actual pass. A couple of miles later we found some trees and shrubs with some sort-of tentsites among them. We found an ok spot which was well protected from the strong mountaintop winds, but it was on a bit of a slant and we had to dig around a bit to make enough room for our tent. Nothing like camping on a mountainside with only a few plants to keep you from sliding down several thousand feet to the valley below!
We made a short-lived fire as we ate dinner with Primo. The winds were very cold and all we wanted to do was get inside of our sleeping bags. The winds howled through the night, but our tent hung in there like a champ.
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