PCT Thru-hike #5: Dumb Ways to Hike
Thru-hiking the Pacific Crest Trail was a life-changing experience for Arthur and Jill. This is our story.
Follow the PCT thru-hike adventure from the beginning and hike with us to mile 2,650.
Julian
Written by Jill
I had a tough time falling asleep last night — I kept imagining that coyotes were going to drag my pack away and eat my tuna packets. I was going to kick their asses if it came down to that, and eventually I drifted off to some even weirder dreams (been having a lot of those on the trail).
We found a great stealth camp spot right before sunset last night and spent the night completely alone. Our morning routines are becoming similar and we were able to break camp efficiently this morning, which was great. There were only about two miles to the next water tank, so we hustled there and filled up for the nine mile hike to highway S2 and Julian. I kept talking about what I wanted to eat, mostly omelets and tomatoes, until Rt politely asked me to keep it to myself. Thoughts of real food were upsetting him.
There were some stunning views as we slowly descended to the desert floor. The last few miles to the highway were flat and less rocky, but the time sure did drag. Once we were closer to the road we prettied up our packs and put on our least smelly shirts in hopes of a hitch to town. No sooner then we stepped on to the road a car came up behind us and I threw out my thumb for my first real hitch. The car pulled over immediately! The driver was a very sweet lady who was going in to Julian and she said she often gives rides to hikers. We thanked her profusely and watched with intense gratitude as the road we had thought to walk on became narrow and very steep. She told us the road to Julian is the longest 12 miles you’ll ever meet. Our trail angel dropped us off in front of the Julian B&B and recommended the cafe before heading on her way.
The rooms at the bed and breakfast were moderately priced ($91 for one room) with wifi and laundry and, of course, breakfast. We dropped our bags in our room and grabbed burgers at the cafe.
I started giggling at the table and Rt asked me what was up. “I can’t believe we were sleeping in a canyon last night and now we are eating burgers.”
It was kind of surreal.
Walking through the desert on our way to Julian.
Dumb Ways to Hike
Written by Jill
Breakfast was unexpectedly amazing! There were three delicious courses delivered to our table. We had fresh fruit, great coffee, and hiker camaraderie. It was an excellent way to begin the day. Soon after breakfast we found a hitch back to the trail and started up again. The lady who picked us up said she had passed by a hitch hiker the day before and felt bad, so she wanted to make up for it by stopping for us. I’d say her karma is restored!
There’s a game my nephews are really into called Dumb Ways To Die. The theme song is very catchy. I found myself singing a slightly modified version of it today as Tomtit and I began the 5 mile climb back up to 3200 feet — at 12:30 in the afternoon. In the desert. In the extreme heat.
The sun was going full blast as we trudged up the switchbacks with 5 liters of water (that’s an extra 11 pounds each) to make it to the next water source. Once we got up off the desert floor there was a nice breeze and we stopped in the shade of a little tree to cool down for a while. Tomtit has had some bad blisters from his shoes and so while we relaxed we decided to try swapping shoes. Yes, our feet are about the same size.
For the rest of the day Tomtit said his feet felt better and I didn’t have any issues with his shoes. He might have to get a different pair soon if he keeps having blister problems.
We had a great nearo (a near zero mileage day of hiking, anything less than 10 for us) in Julian and are now camped in a dry creek bed with four other groups of hikers. A family came in about an hour after us with a very young girl — maybe seven years old. It’s so amazing to see all the types of people out enjoying the trail!
100 Miles and 20
Written by Jill
Today was jam packed with awesome stuff! We started out early to finish the ridge we’d hiked up all of yesterday.
Just as we had crawled out of camp Cashmere and Physio appeared from around the corner! We had all stayed in Julian the night before and Tomtit and I weren’t sure if our friends were hiking out or not. They are quick hikers so they caught up to us : ) All of us have packages at the upcoming Warner Springs post office, but it’s closed tomorrow. We decided to make today an easy day and shoot for Barrel Springs in about 13 miles.
Tomtit’s knee felt much better today and we made really good time going downhill to the spring. We were almost to the bottom when we saw that we had made it 100 miles! Wahoo!!
We continued down to the Barrel Springs water source (which, apparently, had dead rats in it two days before). It was an oasis of sorts with large trees and warm sand, so we hung around for a few hours while the hottest part of the day passed. We had the option of staying at the water source for the night or making a few more miles toward Warner Springs. Though it was a lovely spot, we got up and got going.
We were rewarded with amazing views. For us, this part of the trail was unbelievable. Walking through rolling fields of grass after 100 miles of desert was the most refreshing experience. It was heavenly.
While frolicking in the fields we realized that we were about three miles short of a 20 mile day — that would be the longest we had hiked so far. We passed by several campsite options as the light started to fade. Our goal became apparent as we saw Eagle Rock was right where we needed to stop for our first 20.
My muscles were dead. My feet felt like they weighed 10 pounds each. We met the 20 mile goal and threw down our gear at Eagle Rock. We cowboy camped between the boulders to shelter ourselves from the wind.
Eagle Rock is a staple photo spot for thru-hikers just outside of Warner Springs.
Warner Springs
Written by Jill
Cowboy camping last night was pretty sweet. Coyotes howled all night long in the fields around us. It wasn’t scary until I was jolted awake at 2 am to the sound of a growling dog. My heart raced. Adrenaline shocked my system. My eyes darted all around, searching for the beast, until I realized that I had been woken by the sounds of Tomtit’s snores. Other than that frightening moment, the cowboy camping was a success.
A beautiful sunrise rose over the fields as we packed our gear and started to hike. We wandered down through lush trees and along a creek that smelled like cow on our way to the Warner Springs Community Resource Center. This place was fantastic! They cooked us hot breakfast, had laundry services, and had two shower stalls fully stocked with shampoos and soaps. The center served hamburgers and hotdogs for lunch and dinner — delicious.
Our first mailed resupply was to the Warner Springs post office. It wasn’t open because it was Sunday (bad timing on our part). There were a lot of other hikers waiting for packages and taking advantage of the wonderful amenities, so the time passed quickly as we laughed and talked with everyone.
I am continually amazed at the community of people willing to help us smelly hikers. The people here are so generous and sweet.
Want to start from the beginning of the hike? Click here.
See more pictures from Arthur and Jill’s Pacific Crest Trail thru-hike by downloading the Adventure and The Pacific Crest Trail eBook. A print version is available as well. All sales help support Better Hiker.
